The Outsider: Bells Epilogue/ Chump Change for the Connected Generation.
“The period we are going through is one of drama and confusion.” Willie Brandt. Just a few more things, friends, if we could be permitted to digress and roam freely. I didn’t go back to JanJuc and get my board. I stood on the Bells stairs instead drinking beer and feeling cold, groping [...]
The Outsider: Bells7. Gorillas in the Mist.
“I am the son, I am the heir, to a shyness that is criminally vulgar” Not Adriano De Souza. What’s that faint sound in the background sports fans? That’s Old Jimmy Slade laughing his arse off at the top of the rankings. The very best case scenario for him after getting his bad back [...]
The Outsider. Bells6: Downhearted/Agua De Beber.
“Every day I sit in this hotel I get weaker; every day Charlie squats in the jungle he gets stronger. ” Captain Willard. Apocalypse Now. Which as a mantra to live by has always seemed functional, if not exactly conducive to comfort. Even the Big Ziff with 4.2b behind him can fall back on a [...]
The Outsider: Bells 4/The 52 year storm.
Don’t know about you but I was up continually in the night checking that loveable mad-dog Kim Jong-un hadn’t pressed the wrong red button and sent nuclear war-heads buzzing all over the Pacific rim. Sure, Bells Beach would be one of the safer places on Earth; we know Kim is a sports fanatic and wouldn’t [...]
The Outsider: Bells Day3. Just the facts Ma’am.
Stephanie Gilmore surfed four times today on a rising swell and offshore winds with a broken bone in her foot. Her surfing was sometimes brilliant, always stylish; highlighted for mine by long looping cutbacks with a strong rebound high in the corner. She made the other girls, and compared to Gilmore they are girls, look [...]
The Outsider: Jesus, meet Allah.
Jesus, Meet Allah. “The news is bad: they won’t give peace a chance. That was just a dream some of us had” Joni Mitchell. California. You could tell this morning after the temperature plummeted overnight, and I can tell you I felt every lousy degree drop out on a hard concrete floor, that [...]
The Outsider: Bells 1. Offense/Defense.
Problems with Paypal, hunger, a late kick in swell. Mr Paul Speaker sees sense on the Bells conundrum. I had alot of stuff on my mind riding Pink Beauty along the ochre coloured cliff path to Bells this morning. Most of it came down to money, or the lack of it, a fine old problem [...]
The Outsider: Bells Prologue/ Why can’t we learn to love it?
Back at Bells, buses, dry winds blowing across the fragrant heath. Red dirt under bare feet feels like remedy for the vague shame which strangles. Sunshine and sumptuous poverty. Strange musings at a jealously guarded reefbreak and the incumbency of due diligence. Wouldn’t it have been a strange little hiatus for Kelly Slater? That’s [...]
The Outsider: Epilogue/Crime and Punishment.
“Journalism is not a profession or a trade. It is a cheap catch-all for fuckoffs and misfits — a false doorway to the backside of life, a filthy piss-ridden little hole nailed off by the building inspector, but just deep enough for a wino to curl up from the sidewalk and masturbate like a chimp [...]
