Sorry for the missed reports, been in transit from Bells. Looks like straight back where I left off with SE winds and about 3ft of gurgle, stirred up water from some really heavy showers which already seem to have worked their way through the creek systems and into the ocean. Nothing to see or surf [...]
Gorgeous morning here after a brief dawn shower with clean lines in the 3-5ft range and a morning offshore that is expected to clock around WSW then SW as a front passes to the south. Some damm fine looking waves for the early though as the tide drops. Get it into it.
Stephanie Gilmore surfed four times today on a rising swell and offshore winds with a broken bone in her foot. Her surfing was sometimes brilliant, always stylish; highlighted for mine by long looping cutbacks with a strong rebound high in the corner. She made the other girls, and compared to Gilmore they are girls, look [...]
Delicate morning here with an offshore brushing some smooth lines. It’s an inconsistent 3ft so get ready for lulls. All the reefs look fully attended, as you’d expect on a sunny Easter Saturday. on wave model charts the leading edge of the next swell pulse looks to fill in during the afternoon. Might be worth [...]
Jesus, Meet Allah. “The news is bad: they won’t give peace a chance. That was just a dream some of us had” Joni Mitchell. California. You could tell this morning after the temperature plummeted overnight, and I can tell you I felt every lousy degree drop out on a hard concrete floor, that [...]
Back at Bells, buses, dry winds blowing across the fragrant heath. Red dirt under bare feet feels like remedy for the vague shame which strangles. Sunshine and sumptuous poverty. Strange musings at a jealously guarded reefbreak and the incumbency of due diligence. Wouldn’t it have been a strange little hiatus for Kelly Slater? That’s [...]
“We don’t know whats happening, and that’s what happening”. Struggling to write, too many beers in the afternoon sunlight. Queensland hedonism wraps me in it’s warm and inviting embrace. Taken separately and together as whole, Slater’s performances in his Rd4 heat yesterday and QF today, have to rank as some of the most brutally [...]
Random news tidbits on the Pacific Highway driving north through coastal showers and green hills; the Forbes Richest Person on Earth list has just been released. More billionaires than ever before! More Chinese property and resource tycoons! More American billionaires than anywhere else on the planet. Nick Woodman, 37, America’s newest billionaire. Who’s he you [...]